Edinburgh Receives Primark – With Love or a Grimace?
24 Aug

There’s a flurry of activity down on Princes Street at the moment that has nothing at all to do with the Fringe. After years of deliberation (seriously – they’ve been talking about this ever since I moved here in 2004) Edinburgh is soon to become host to its very first Primark store. And just in time for the shopping bonanza that will be Christmas 2011.
I no longer shop in Primark for an array of different reasons (and man did I used to shop in Primark!). Ethics are the biggest and most important of those reasons, but there are others. For one thing, Primark clothes fall apart. The seams burst, they lose their shape, the buttons fall off. I dream of a wardrobe of clothes so well made that I can one day hand them down to my children. I do not dream of a wardrobe of clothes that I’ll have to replace come Autumn because everything in it is torn, burst or bobbled.
Another thing that annoys me about Primark is that I think it massively deceitful when it comes to pricing. Now of course, if you have your stock made in Bangladeshi sweatshops you’ll be able to sell it cheaply, but I also think that Primark marks things down for another reason: the impulse buy. I have a friend who once spent £90 on underwear alone during one particularly ambitious Primark shopping spree. Why did she do that? Because the stuff was so cheap she got completely carried away. Would she have behaved the same way in M&S or La Senza? Absolutely, 100%, not. Primark’s cheap price tags dig deep into our brains, probing that part of us that always wants to have more stuff into action. It signifies a lucrative stroke of business genius for the company shareholders and, sadly, often a total loss of self-control for us.
And it gets better for Primark, because people get bored with clothing very quickly these days. When everything is so cheap, why not just throw that three month old dress away and replace it with this nice new one? It’s only *insert price of two coffees*. The volume of Primark clothing I see in charity shops these days is astonishing, and it also proves my point: little about the cheap clothing industry lasts. Not the clothes, not the giddy thrill of the purchase and not even the seductive effect of that amazing pleated skirt or those super shiny brogues. The only thing that seems to enjoy any staying power when it comes to Primark, it seems, is its amazing ability to make us spend more money than we intended, and then go back for more a few weeks later.
The poor quality and the sneaky pricing are trifling compared to the real issue I have with Primark, however, which is ethics (or rather, lack of them). I’m fed up of hearing fashion bloggers attempt to absolve themselves of the guilt they so obviously feel about shopping in Primark on the basis that – while of course they care about ethical issues – “it’s too difficult” to find out what the situation really is with regard to the manufacturing of all those flimsy tea dresses.
And to an extent, they do have a point. A cursory scan of the internet just informed me that Primark’s manufacturing processes are indeed anything but clear. In fact, they seem to be shrouded in secrecy, with directors of the company continually declining to come out and talk to the media about its inner workings. In fact, following a BBC investigation into its methods in 2008, Primark parted company with three factories in Southern India for failing to abide by its ethical policy (note that it parted company with the factories after it was caught with its hand in the biscuit tin and became the subject of public disgust, not before). The rest of the time, it seems that when pressed on matters relating to the manufacture of its clothes, Primark fudges the issue with talk of economies of scale and organisational complexities.
Of course information that paints Primark in a dim ethical light doesn’t come from the Primark website. The Primark website would have us believe that the company is a shining beacon of fair trade and an ardent supporter of living wages for every one of its 700,000 workers. But then Primark’s very own website would say nothing less. Every high street retailer pays lip service to ethical trading these days – to do otherwise is to commit PR suicide. As one commentator put it (in 2008): “In 2008, having a code of conduct and an ethical spokesperson is to the fashion chain what having a supermodel in your advertising was in 1995. Unfortunately, as we are discovering, to have a code of conduct is little or no insurance against it being breached.”
If Primark’s refusal to fully disclose its manufacturing practices should tell us anything, shouldn’t it be that those practices aren’t up to scratch? Retailers know that ethics are important to their consumers these days. We all want to buy with a clear conscience and no one wants to feel that they are in any way responsible for the horror that is children as young as eight years old spending their days stitching maxi dresses for the UK Summer for five pence an hour rather than playing outside with their friends. In a world where image and reputation are all things to many people I find it hard to reach any conclusion other than if Primark truly had nothing to hide when it came to questions over its ethical astuteness it would make pretty well sure that we all knew about it. As matters stand, Primark says little about what really goes on behind the scenes. And as far as I’m concerned, that can only be a bad thing.
Of course it’s not just Primark over which an ethical question mark is suspended. Half the high street is at it with the child labour, and as so many people have correctly pointed out, high pricing is not an indication of ethical practice. Neither is the high street the only place for issues such as these to come to the fore. The purchasing decisions we make every single day have an impact – sometimes a negative impact – on someone or something somewhere in the world. The coffee we drink, the eggs we bake with, the products we use on our skin and hair. I single out Primark simply because it’s my own personal bugbear, and the one store that I’m committed to living without. I’m well aware that my decision to avoid shopping there has no impact whatsoever on the company’s profits. I know that a boycott of one won’t force it to do anything about its manufacturing practices. I also know that not everyone feels the same way about ethical shopping or, indeed, about Primark. Nevertheless, I avoid it because I believe in avoiding it and because I genuinely do think that the world would be a better place without it. The world, and more locally, Edinburgh.
Quote above from this article by Lisa Armstrong in the Times, June 17th 2008.
Image above from Flickr – thinkretail.




