Northumberland: A Day Trip
17 May

Yesterday, after a ‘we want to get out of the city’-type discussion we had on Friday, Laurence and I took a trip across the border to visit the tiny island of Lindisfarne and the beautiful village of Bamburgh on the Northumberland coast. I’m mistakenly prone to thinking that England is hundreds of miles away from Edinburgh, but in actual fact, it’s little more than an hour’s drive in the car – closer than most of the rest of Scotland in fact. If you have the radio on, or you’re with someone who you’re half-inclined to want to talk to, the time whizzes by. Before we knew it, we were scooting across the border.
Lindesfarne is a tiny island off the coast of Northumberland, reachable by a causeway which opens only at low tide. It’s a lovely little place, and it reminds me so much of the Katie Morag stories I was talking about last week. For such a tiny island there’s a heck of a lot to see – it boasts the rugged remains of a monastery and a fantastic castle that sits perched atop some craggy rocks at the edge of the shore. Only 160 people live permanently on the island and apart from a couple of pubs, a post office and a miniature harbour it’s deliciously quiet (if you subtract the swarms of tourists heaving about that is). It’s all so very pretty – the houses are beautifully painted and there are flower beds and little gardens and appropriately-sited benches all over the place. Particularly pleasing to me were the ‘boat sheds’ (see picture above) – literally sheds made from upturned boats, chopped in half and sealed into the ground. These strike me as perhaps the ultimate in thrifty accommodation: ‘Yeah this used to be my boat but I’ve, like, made it my house now’. Coolest thing you’ve ever heard?!
Lindesfarne is exactly the type of place to go if you need to forget the bustle of the city for an afternoon, listen to some bird song and look at stuff that’s easy on the eye. We had a good walk around, followed by a home-made picnic (of left-over mackerel pasta, boiled eggs and tea) before heading back across to the mainland, and to Bamburgh in particular.
Bamburgh has an even more amazing castle than Lindisfarne (I’m becoming weirdly enchanted by castles in case you hadn’t noticed). It also has a fantastic beach that stretches on for miles and miles and is nothing but pure, golden sand. The village of Bamburgh itself is quaint and historic-feeling, and it packs in a surprising number of cafés and pubs, given its size. We had a good old-fashioned cream tea at a lovely little place called the Copper Kettle Tea Rooms (a name to die for, I think) and my God was it delicious. There’s something so right about tea, scones and Sunday afternoons. They just go together, in a similar way to coffee, bacon and Saturday mornings. The scones were warm, the cream was plentiful and the tea well-brewed. It wasn’t overly expensive either – a drop in the ocean compared to some city-based tea joints.
All in all, we had a lovely day out. It was just what I felt I needed to kickstart me into the week and it wasn’t the most expensive either. Our costs were mostly confined to petrol and scones. Not bad for a jaunt to another country is it?
Image above from Flickr – tugwilson.




